Elly / Luckyxero's Jawa Build
Here's my initial shot at it.
- Went to JoAnn's this morning, but could only find white monk cloth. I didn't feel like dyeing it, so I did the hunt for herringbone cloth. Went all over Nashua- TJ Maxx, Sears, Macy's, JC Penney, Linen & Things (out of business) & Bed Bath & Beyond and found a dark brown King sized blanket that looked like the approved Ralph Lauren blanket. Plus it was on sale for $20, so I said WTH, give it a shot.
- Stopped at 2 sports stores to get a hockey mask, but couldn't find one. Got the tape though.
- Also went down to O'Connors to get the reflectors that Bob mentioned when he did Julia's build. Also found battery LEDs that are used as counter/cabinet lighting - 3 for $10. Another experiment in the works.
- 9:10 PM Baby's asleep—time to build. Laid the blanket out in half and laid on top of it. Lot's of people say to make sure you keep lot's of leg room, so I basically used as much as I could. I also had to leave room to make the hood, so I decided to keep the arms attached. Justin said he did his separately, but I can't stand sewing arms on a shirt so I didn't do it. He also gave me this link for a pattern.
- I used pins to locate my armpits, and then added room for sewing - about 2 inches. The jawa has a loose fit robe, so I was pretty cautious. I also flaired out the arms, per Bob's suggestion, made sure it was symmetrical, and pinned it down. Ended up with this.
After the cut
- Sewed it (without breaking the thread!!!), frayed the ends and got this.
I ended up reducing the length a few times and cutting some of the sleeves off. If you look at the picture with the pins, the final sleeve opening goes more perpendicular to the top of the sleeve (to the 2nd or 3rd pin a the bottom sleeve stitch.
- now time for the hood. Used TK409's method for the hood, which is basically a square with a straight stitch on the back and a loop thing (like a sweat shirt) for the wire.
Added a snap and a coat hanger to the hood. (no pic)
- First pics of the robe and hood.
I'm not sure about the hood, but I want to make sure the mask is complete before I shorten it. I think the distance from the back to front wire is too long.
- Found some junk lying around my basement from incomplete costumes and built a bandolier. (not the final one, but just for testing). It's not even completely strapped in.
- I didn't like the shoulders. They looked to big, so I made an executive decision to round them out. You could see it pretty well b/c I used grey thread. Mostly b/c my brown thread was screwing up on the sewing machine since I bought too big of a roll.
= Here's what it looks like with rounded shoulders.
- Gonna make the eyes tomorrow or whenever I get the mask. Here are the RMs for tools and scraps for the boots.
C&C welcome!! More to come this week. I want this DONE!!!!
Built the mask today using Bob's method with LED's in the reflectors, mostly because I really liked the way Julia looked in the pics where she's holding the R2 head.
Anyway, here's the mask I got. I did a real bad job cutting the nose off, so I stopped. I don't think it's going to matter since I'm going to put fur on it anyway.
Cut 1/4 holes in the reflectors….yes I did test it using a red one. There was only 1 orange one in the pack so I couldn't make any mistakes.
Added a snap in grommet thingy from radioshack and the LED. I bought 2 versions of the LED, a 1900 mA(?) and a 20 mA (forgot the units) but blew out the 1900 when I connected it to 2 AAs. I really don't know anything about LEDs, I just treated them like lightbulbs - we'll see!
Drilled holes in the mask for placement and inserted the assembly.
Attached regular wires to the LED leads and hot glued them down. Is this safe? (It's only 2 AA, what could happen? :) )
Then I added my see through fabric to the mask by hot glueing the top, then cutting out the holes for the eyes. This was the hardest part. I learned on the second one, that I could cut smaller holes and tuck the extra fabric in back of the eyes. The first eye (left side of picture) doesn't look too bad though. I made the fabric alot longer so I could wrap it around my head. (Stole this idea from Keith's Grievous mask.)
Here are a few test shots
Went to Payless today to find some boots, and they had some Airwalk Ugg look alikes (for women), but they were $40. Then I went to Wally world and found these…….. I think they might work, since you really don't see the backs of my feet. We'll see. If I have to, I can do the biker scout boot mod and make these into boots. They were only $3.00.
I also looked around the clearance aisles for some brown sweats as under robes, but found a matching set of pajamas. They aren't exactly the same shade of brown, but usually under robes are off color. $9.00.
Here's what they look like with my hood on….yeah….me with pajamas on.
I also added the black liner to the hood and shortened the distance b/w the front and back. Also fixed the wire so it was rounder.
Here's the Jawa now.
Got the guns in the mail too…..I'll probably use the top one.
Got alot done tonight - Shoes, Gun assembly and holster assembly.
Decided not to use those Walmart shoes. I thought they might slip off and I didn't want to risk having to go look for it during a troop or having to do the rest of a parade without a shoe on, so I sacrificed an old pair of sneakers.
I first took a bigger piece of scrap cloth and glued it on the majority of each shoe. Then, I added previously frayed stands of cloth on top. Ran out of plumbers goop, so I used some cloth glue that I had lying around. It seemed to work. Once all the pieces were on I trimmed the extra cloth around the bottom.
For the gun, I got 2 inch PVC, a shower curtain rod end, a dishwasher hose with clamps, some wood molding for the clip, and random screws. First I built the clip using 3 pieces of molding per side. I did this to get those vertical lines on the clip, since I didn't feel like carving of sculpting anything. I cut the molding to approx 1.5 inches and glued them on a thin piece of wood. Then I cut it on my mitre saw to get the angle at the bottom. Drilled holes at the bottom to screw it into the wooden part of the gun, but I didn't have screws big enough, so that will have to wait until later. I still need to paint it.
Then I built the wide barrel part of the gun. The main piece is 2” PVC Pipe. The hard part of this whole build is getting the PVC to fit on the barrel using a series of adapters. So I found this dishwasher connector that used hose clamps. I added set screws on both the curtain rod connector and on the PVC pipe because the contact b/w the two wasn't very good. I am still debating whether or not to do this whole part over. It looks Ok, but I know it's a weak build. Anyone that builds industrial equipment knows that set screws suck!
Now onto the holster, which I tried to model after Bob's. This is my first time dealing with leather. Got a scrap piece at Tandy for the holster part, and bought a really long belt for the strap. Both were light, so I have to dye them darker. Once the gun was complete, I could use it to measure out the holster. I cut the back part as the base, then the wrap part which is the same shape but 5 inches wider to account for the thickness of the gun. Taped it together to get a good fit and positioning of the leather pieces. Punched holes and used those screw in rivet things (like elevator screws) to connect. I'm dying them now overnight, but didn't take pix. The belt is long, and the entire assembly goes across my shoulder and allows the bottom of the gun to sit just above my knee.
Almost done!!!! :)
Finished the gun today.
As I said in the other post, I wasn't really happy with the final durability with the ion blaster so I redid the gun tip. The old one was glued, puttied, cemented, and still wouldn't stay together. So I did some brainstorming at the hardware store.
This time I used a conduit connector, a PVC end cap and PVC connector to make the tip. The conduit connector has a clamped end and a screw tip with nut - exactly what I needed.
For the end cap, I drilled a hole the size of the screw part on the conduit connector using my drill press. Then inserted the screw part of the conduit, and locked it in place with the nut and some CA Glue. This is a really solid piece now, and will not come apart during trooping.
The end cap accepts a standard 2” PVC pipe, so I added a small piece and connected it to another PVC union. Kind of funny that I used the PVC pipe as the union of 2 “accessory” pieces.
I also attached the clip to the gun with screws so it wouldn't come off. I originally had it attached using that epoxy putty, but that stuff sux. So I drilled 2 holes at the bottom and mechanically attached it.
Painted it black, glued everything together, and it's done. Kinda……I just have to weather it.
OK. I think I'm done. Here's the checklist from the Krayt Clan site. BTW - I built this whole costume, while waiting for their detachment leader to give me approval to their site! :) They take forever!!!!
My final pix below the checklist.
Detachment: Krayt Clan
ALL of the following costume elements are required in order to be eligible for 501st Legion membership for this costume.
Robe w/ matching hood -[b] [color=#FF0000]DONE[/color][/b]
•the robe should be of the appropriate herringbone Ralph Lauren blanket, Monk.s cloth, or similar textured material, and should be a rusty brown color. The robe may be closed (as in a dress) or have an opening the length of the robe, off-centered. The openings of the sleeves and robe bottom should be flared, unhemmed and frayed. Cottons are recommended for cost, look, feel, breath-ability, and ease of care. The hood should be a separate piece, and should have a wire reinforcement sewn into the face opening to keep the hood open for visibility and look. A solid core, coated wire of 12 or 14 gauge metal is recommended. The flaps at the bottom of the face opening should overlap as seen in the films.
Face shroud - [b][color=#FF0000]DONE[/color][/b]
•The face shroud should be a breathable, black covering that hides the head of the costumer, but allows for necessary vision and air circulation (such as a tight mesh).
Mask - [b][color=#FF0000]DONE[/color][/b]
•The mask is essentially a base upon which to mount two glowing eyes. Only the illuminated eyes should be visible, making it ideal to wear the mask under the shroud. The glowing eyes should glow, not project, so do not use mini-flashlights or other reflector beams that shoot light out. A simple incandescent lamp or non-directional LED is ideal. The diameter of the light should not exceed 3/4. (5cm).
Gloves - [b][color=#FF0000]DONE[/color][/b]
•A pair of black gloves, leather or fabric, as of sufficient length to hide the wrists and arms (preferably elbow length). There should be no visible buckles, straps, or zippers.
Bandoliers - [b][color=#FF0000]DONE[/color][/b]
•A Jawa must have at least one bandolier; preferably one of these (from ANH):
•leather Henry Martini British .303 bandolier pattern
•leather Lee Metford (Boer War era) British .303 bandolier pattern
•leather Lee Enfield British .303 bandolier 1903 pattern A prequel Jawa may utilize the leather Swedish Mauser bandolier. Other leather WW2 era style bandoliers (or similar recreations) matching the styles in the movie may also be acceptable.
Boots - [b][color=#FF0000]DONE[/color][/b]
•Either a wrapped boot (similar to the Tusken Raider boot but with darker coloring), or an .Ug. boot or similar is recommended. There should be no obvious buckles or zippers showing. And the robe should be of a length that the boots themselves remain fairly hidden.
•black lining may be sewn into the hood - [b][color=#FF0000]DONE[/color][/b]
•a crude natural colored leather vest may be worn over the robe - [color=#0000FF]next round[/color]
•realistic black fur may be applied to the tops of the gloves - [color=#0000FF]coming soon[/color]
•ion blaster or rifle (as seen in Episodes IV and VI) - [b][color=#FF0000]DONE[/color][/b]
•droid caller (as seen in Episode IV) - [color=#0000FF]coming soon[/color]
•Microflame welder (as seen in Episode IV) - [color=#0000FF]if I can find one.[/color]
These costume elements are in addition to the required list of costume parts and are optional. This list provides costuming options that increase the level of accuracy of the costume and give a costumer ideas to consider for improvement.
•A second bandolier as listed in the Bandoliers section, or a utility strap with pouch, holster, or tool container (or combination thereof). - [color=#0000FF]coming soon[/color]
•An under robe of similar color, but of a lighter weave material. [b][color=#FF0000]DONE[/color][/b]