This tutorial was created by TJ Vanderstoop, aka TB-4210. His screen name on bikerscout.net is jeezycreezy. It has been used by several people to build their own Biker Scout Boots.
Before I begin, this tutorial is not “definitive”; in the sense that you have to do it this way. This is just a guideline. Do what works best for you, your boot and your materials.
Materials you’ll need: - One pair of tan (wheat) colored hiking, work, jungle or similar boot. I used a pair of size 10 work boots. The important thing is the sole has to be tan. Depending on the boots you use you may want to remove the laces and cut out a small portion of the back of the ankle to make them easier to slip on. I left my boot intact, laces and all, and have no trouble getting in and out of them.
- One yard of white vinyl or similar material. I used an inexpensive mock leather. - Heavy duty thread. Choose a color that is less white than your vinyl. - Three feet each of sewable (not adhesive)” hook and loop Velcro. I used 1/2 inch Velcro because I had some, but looking back at reference shots it probably could have gone wider. - A quantity of double-sided sticky Velcro - GLOO. This is athletic shoe glue made by Tana that I bought at Wal-Mart. I tested contact cement, super glue and GLOO and found GLOO to be the best. If you prefer another adhesive knock yourself out – if you don’t, the fumes will. - One box of push pins. Probably 50 or so. - Masking and duct tape - One automobile on a hot, summer afternoon to heat the vinyl. Other people who have followed this tutorial have had success with a hair dryer or an iron.
Tools you’ll need: A knife with a sharp blade. Scissors A needle and rudimentary sewing skills; a sewing machine with a sturdy needle will save a lot of time. Rivet tool and eight rivets Long ruler or similar straight edge Iron and ironing board. Duct tape A wide paint brush
Step 1: The templates
I made templates using large sheets of paper before I cut into the vinyl. There are three main pieces to each boot: The toe, the calf and the flap. The paper prototype looked worse than a freshly blasted Ewok, but it’s important to have a good pattern before you cut your vinyl.
The toe piece needs to be larger than the toe of your boots so you can pin the excess to the sole when you stretch it into shape.
The ankle is wearer-specific in terms of how tall you want it and how wide your calves are and boot specific as to how big the arch is (this is why you should make your own template). If you want to use mine, bear in mind that my boot is a size 10, the measurements are:
The flap is probably the same for everyone so I have included a VERY rough template of mine at 100% to print out. You may want to make it longer or shorter depending on your base boot.
Step 2: The toe
Cut out the toe shape. Starting at the toe, used the push pins to attach the vinyl to the sole (this leaves tiny holes that are barely noticeable when you’re done). Keep stretching the material back and down as you pin.
Place in a hot car for a while; this makes the vinyl a lot more malleable. Stretch, re-pin, and repeat for as many times as you think necessary. I left it in my car for 30 minutes between stretching and stretched it three times. When I stretched them I would remove all the pins from one side, stretching the material down and back as I repined it. I then repeated the process of removing the pins on the other side and re-stretching as I replaced the pins.
Some people who followed this tutorial had success using a hair dryer or an iron instead of a hot car.
Finally, use the push pins on the top of the sole where the leather and the sole feet.
This will push the bottom of the vinyl in for a nicer finish. Leave in for another 30 minutes and then take it out and let it sit. The longer you leave it the more the vinyl will hold its shape.
Step 3: The flaps
Use the template to cut the flaps on a piece of paper. Test it on your boots. You may want to increase or decrease the size. When you’re happy commit it to vinyl
Sew two rows of stitches up the sides as shown; I inset a reference shot “borrowed” from Bikerscout.net.
This is strictly for show and isn’t necessary, but the boots they used in the movie were stitched like this and it just plain looks better.
Step 4: The calves
Cut out the calf pieces using your template. Fold over about 1/2 inch of the top and sew it. I duct taped (which was later removed) and ironed mine over with a thick dish towel over it so that it would hold the hem before I sewed it. Be careful here as vinyl melts WAY too easily.
Next sew the Velcro with one row of stitches on the edge of each piece of Velcro. The left and right boots are different so select a left ankle and a right ankle and ensure that the hook Velcro is on the outside of your leg. In other words, for your left boot the hook Velcro is sewn on the inside of the boot on the rough side of the material and the loop is sewn on the good side of the vinyl. You can figure out the right boot for yourself.
Step 5: Return of the toe
Before you glue the toe, try the boots on for fit so that they’re not too tight. (Adjust as necessary). When you’re satisfied enough to commit the toe with GLOO, carefully remove all the pins but two or three from the toe.
Using a wide brush and as quickly as possible, peel back the vinyl and glue like a madman. Then pull the vinyl back on and reattach with the push pins as they were before (i.e.. facing down on the top of the sole), pulling down and back as you go giving it one final stretch. Let dry for a couple of hours. Once dry, remove the pins and trim the boot using a sharp Xacto knife. Any mistakes you make will be covered in the next step.
Cut two long, half inch strips of vinyl (we’ll call these the masking strips) I used a long ruler and Xacto knife.
Glue the back of the strip and then attach it to the edge of the vinyl, pushing it down towards the sole as you go along. Any glue which leaks out can be easily rubbed away. Use masking tape to hold it all down. Allow it to dry for a couple hours. Next remove the masking tape and trim the ends of the
Step 6: Attaching the calves
Position the ankle over the back of the boot (not to insult anyone’s intelligence, but remember that you made calf pieces specific to the right and left boots!) Figure out a good place to rivet the material to the boot. Drill a hole in the boot and punch a hole in the vinyl where they will align, and get everything ready to rivet the ankle to the boot. Used a generous amount of GLOO around the rivet and the base of the ankle section, but leave enough so that you can open up the Velcro. Don’t GLOO any higher than three inches form the base of the sole; you’ll want to be able to open this up so you can tie and untie your base boot. Now rivet that bad boy on there! The flap should cover the rivets. If not just glue a small round piece of vinyl over the rivet.
Allow it to dry.
Step 7: Attaching the flaps
I used Gloo and glued the flaps over the gap between the toe and the calf. That’s it. Now you just undo the Velcro, fold the material forward which gives you fairly good access to get your foot in, do up your laces (if you didn’t rip them out) and then Velcro everything back up.
Step 8: The holster
The first thing I did was trim the holster. The screen used holster seemed less round and more tapered at the front than the one I got, so I drew a line like so, and trimmed and sanded it:
There was a bit of ABS that stuck out. and I wanted the holster to be as flush with my boot as possible, so I trimmed where the red arrow points as much as I could. This is what the trimmed front of the holster looked like:
Now mark some spots where you will rivet the holster:
Drill four holes with a bit that is the same as are your rivets. Now take some sticky loop Velcro and glue it to the inside flap of your boot. I added an extra dollop of Gloo to give it some extra sticking power. (Note for later: When you’re done attaching the holster, sew the black strip of hook Velcro to the leg of your flight suit to help hold it up.
Now line up the holster with the top of your calf section. I recommend rivetting in this order being careful to make sure everything will line up properly when you’re done:
When you have the holster lined up with the boot, mark a spot, punch a hole, and insert the rivet. I took a small square of ABS and drilled a hole in it . I placed this on the inside of the boot to help strengthen the rivet.
Here is the end result, standing up with no added support.
It also stands up with the pistol in it:
Step 9: Sole (optional)
I have cut the sole with hobby knives to more closely match the screen used boots. It was time consuming but worth it for me.